Ahhh...The Sounds of Africa

I wish you could hear the sounds of Africa in the morning. It really is the most extraordinary time.

There are birds calling that I can't quite come close to identifying or describing their beautiful songs. They're hidden somewhere in the giant mango trees that surround us...the same trees that will come alive with movement in a little while as the kids amble off to school or off to run errands. You'll see them looking around for things to throw up into the trees hoping to get lucky enough to hit something that will knock the delicious fruit to the ground for them. But for now, the birds know they're safe up there eating.

Their calls are answered by the monkeys who still seem to evade me. Even though I hear they're crazy wild around here, I've only been able to spot one...once.

The weather is cool in the morning with a refreshing breeze off of Lake Victoria - a view not far to the - oh, right - I'm even more directionally challenged here than anywhere I've been.

You hear sheep naying all around, and on this early Saturday morning, the cars haven't quite begun their obnoxious cacaphony of horns honking and loud mufflers and matutu drivers sticking their heads out the doors calling to folks who might prefer to pay the USG500 instead of climbing the hill by foot.

The lunatic rooster who has the messed up alarm clock is joined about 30 minutes after he wakes me by at least 20 more. The cows and goats chime in, though they seem to wake later...guess they need to pace themselves for that long day of grazing they have ahead of them. The dogs, thank God, have finally gone to sleep somewhere after barking all night long.

This morning I watch a little boy...or girl, you can never be sure by the way they're dressed, stumble out of the snugness of his bed to wander over to their outhouse. Many houses around us are not "self-contained," or...there's no bathroom inside. A question you'll learn to ask when looking for a guest house (hotels here).

He was pushing hard against the door which refused to budge...then started doing a little dance. I felt a tiny bit intrusive, sort of syping on him; but it's fascinating to watch people! Finally, after several minutes, an older sister slowly makes her way out, words are exchanged in luganda, then a slap returned by a punch. Some things are the same everywhere, huh?

I also decided the little dancing one must be a girl. A little boy would have thought nothing of going right there.

The smells in the morning are nice too. The evening breeze seems to blow the diesel odors away and for a little bit, it's almost fresh air. Even the haze is gone early.

The sky is painted these incredible hues of pinks over Lake Victoria where the sun is beginning to rise (oh!! perhaps the Lake is east of us?) And just before it hits the sky full-blown, you begin to see the smoke all around from the women starting their charcoal fires for the first meal of the day for their families.

And so it begins...this day in Africa. In the amount of time I've sat writing this, the day has come fully alive around me. The birds and cows and rosters are now the background sounds, replaced by cars and horns, the blaring of some radio station somewhere...the mosque up the hill, drums somewhere in a distant village, someone practicing the flute, the sounds of mops splashing the nights worth of dust off pavement and kitchen floors...the swooshing of water as the women and children begin their tasks of scrubbing laundry.

If it weren't for the fact that I so love the quiet noises early in the morning before Africa wakes up, I'd probably hunt down the lunatic rooster with the messed up alarm clock and eat him myself.